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June 15, 2003
On some hard crack!
More climbing pics from yesterday's escapades. Click Here. Bruce and I climbed American Wet Dream (5 pitches 10b), on the Mountaineers Dome in Tuolumne. A climbs rating is based on the hardest move on that climb. For that reason, you can have a 5.10d climb which is all 5.8 except for one 10d move. American Wet Dream is not one of those climbs. It was solid, old school Tuolumne 10a. Very awkward. No gimmes. There was actually only one 10b move, and it didn't seem that hard to us. Not compared to the steep, right facing wide crack climbing. Bruce lead the whole thing, with style. Only one fall on a black Alien which held. Good thing too, he had put a nut precariously in the same crack, but thought better of it and replaced it with an Alien Cam. If he had left the nut, he would have decked on the ledge I was belaying from. Part of the problem was that a lot of the rock was slippery. You just couldn't trust it. The downclimb was tricky/scary too. It involved downclimb/traversing these narrow ledges, some with water flowing down them (something we hadn't counted on). Still, most importantly, we made it up and back safe.Posted by wonko at June 15, 2003 11:55 AM
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